Auto Insurance | Boizelle Insurance Partnership

Insuring Old Cars vs. New Cars

In general, it is cheaper to insure an older car than a brand-new one — but with important caveats. Here’s a breakdown of why, and what to watch out for.

 Why older cars often cost less to insure

  1. Lower replacement value: Older vehicles are worth less, so if they’re written off or damaged, the payout to the insurer is lower.
  2. Simpler repair costs: Older cars tend to have less complex technology, which can reduce repair costs (though not always).
  3. Less required coverage: If you own an older car outright, you may opt to drop collision or comprehensive coverage (if it doesn’t make financial sense), leaving only minimum liability. That makes the premium lower.
  4. Depreciation effect: As a car ages, its value goes down, which tends to bring down insurance cost gradually.

Why newer cars tend to cost more to insure

  1. Higher value / replacement cost: Newer cars cost more to replace or repair, so the insurer’s risk is higher.
  2. Advanced technology & parts: Modern vehicles may include sensors, cameras, advanced electronics — which can be expensive to fix.
  3. Loan / lease requirements: If you’re financing or leasing a new car, the lender may require full coverage (collision + comprehensive), which increases premium.
  4. Potential theft risk: Some newer or popular models are more prone to theft, which can raise rates.

 But — it’s not guaranteed

There are exceptions and additional factors to consider:

  • The make, model, engine size, and risk profile of the car matter a lot. A cheap old car with high theft risk or rare parts could cost more to insure than a newer car with good safety features.
  • Safety features in newer cars can reduce the risk of accidents and may lead to discounts, which could mitigate some of the extra cost.
  • The difference in premium by car age tends to shrink after a certain age or depending on how the insurer views the risk. For example, a 5-year-old car might be ~10-12% cheaper to insure than a brand new car according to some studies.
  • For very old, classic, rare, or vintage vehicles, insurance might actually be more expensive because of rarity of parts, restoration cost, or specialized policy needs.

What this means for you

  • If you buy a standard older car (not luxury/exotic) and you’re comfortable dropping higher coverages if appropriate — you’ll likely pay lower insurance than if you buy new.
  • If you buy a new or recent car, you should budget for higher insurance, but you may offset that with safety/anti-theft features, shop around, and ask for discounts.
  • Always get quotes for the specific make, model, year, and coverage level — because age is just one factor among many.
  • Consider whether dropping collision/comprehensive coverage makes sense when the car’s value is low enough — for older cars that may make financial sense.

Insuring a “classic” or collector vehicle is different in important ways from standard auto insurance. Below are the key considerations and cost ranges, plus what drives the price up or down.

What is “classic car insurance”

A typical “classic car insurance” policy is aimed at vehicles that are:

  • Either a certain age (often 20-25+ years old) or of collectible/historic value.
  • Used less frequently (often for pleasure driving, shows, events) rather than as a daily commuter.
  • Sometimes stored in better conditions (garage, protected) and well maintained.
  • Offered “agreed value” coverage rather than standard “actual cash value” (i.e., insurer and owner agree ahead of time what the car is worth).

These policies reflect the special risk profile: rarer usage, potentially higher value, and different types of damage/loss concerns (eg: theft of a rare part, restoration value, etc).

 

Typical cost ranges

Here are some ballpark numbers (U.S. average) for classic car insurance premiums:

  • Many sources report $200 to $600 per year for “typical” classic car policies.
  • Some sources give a broader range: $400 to $1,000 per year, depending on vehicle value, coverage, usage.
  • In contrast, traditional full-coverage insurance for everyday cars may cost significantly more (for example monthly premiums in some cases $200+).
  • For very high-value collector cars (rare, exotic) the cost can be even higher—notably the article mentions insurance costs for classic & collector cars in the $1,000-$3,000+ yearly range for premium vehicles.

So: if you own a reasonably valued classic, you may pay much less than if you were insuring a typical modern daily driver — but the “much less” depends heavily on usage limits and coverage terms.

 

 What drives the cost (and possible discounts)

Cost-drivers (things that increase premium)

  • High agreed-value: If the car is rare/valuable, replacement/repair costs may be high.
  • Frequent use / high mileage: If you drive it like a daily driver, risk goes up and insurers may charge more or disqualify you.
  • Poor storage/protection: A car left outside, or not well-maintained, is considered higher risk.
  • Modifications/ racing use / exotic parts: These make repair/parts cost higher and may increase premium.
  • Location/insurance market conditions/driver history: Same as any insurance policy.

Cost-savers (things that reduce premium)

  • Limited usage / mileage caps: Many classic car policies restrict how many miles you drive annually, which lowers risk.
  • Indoor/secure storage: Garage keeping, less exposure to damage/theft.
  • Membership in car clubs / being in a recognized “collector car” program: Some insurers offer discounts.
  • Good driving record: As with any insurance.
  • Choosing appropriate coverage/deductible: If you choose higher deductible, or fewer miles driven, you may pay less.
  • Agreed-value coverage: While this may cost more than standard liability only, it can avoid under-insurance risk and sometimes yield better value for the premium.

 

 Things to watch / special terms

  • Usage restrictions: Many classic-car policies will not allow daily commuting or unlimited miles. If you use the car daily, you might be required to take a regular auto policy instead.
  • Agreed value vs actual cash value: With agreed value you and the insurer agree ahead of time what the car is worth, so if it’s stolen or totaled you get that amount (minus deductible) rather than a depreciated value. That is often a key benefit for classics.
  • Storage and maintenance condition requirements: The insurer may require you to store it in a locked garage, keep it in good condition, limit its use, etc.
  • Limited availability: Not all mainstream insurers offer classic car policies; many owners go with specialist insurers.
  • Premiums can still be significant: If the car is very high value or if you drive it a lot or treat it like a daily driver, you may not get the “cheap” benefit of classic car insurance.

Example from a forum: > “For my 91 Nissan Skyline GTR I’m paying 2 k/yr. I might need to call them and figure out why it’s so expensive.”

  • Make sure coverage fits your needs: For example, spare-parts coverage, restoration value, show usage, are these included or optional?
  • Comparisons matter: Get quotes from multiple insurers with specialist collector-car policies, especially since your situation (value, usage, location) will markedly affect cost.

If you own a classic car (used for occasional driving/showing, properly stored, high value, etc), you can often get insurance for hundreds of dollars per year rather than thousands. Many expect something in the $200-$600 annual premium range for a “normal” collector car. But the “classic” designation doesn’t guarantee cheap — it depends a lot on usage, value, coverage, and insurer.

 

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Lesser Known Facts About Motorcycle Safety

When it comes to motorcycle safety, most riders are aware of the basics—wear a helmet, follow traffic laws, and stay visible. However, beyond these well-known guidelines lie a number of lesser-known but equally important facts that can make a critical difference on the road. From the surprising frequency of crashes during short, routine trips to the often-overlooked benefits of anti-lock braking systems, these insights reveal hidden risks and essential precautions that many riders and drivers don’t consider. Understanding these lesser-known facts can not only improve individual safety but also help create a more informed and aware riding community.

Surprising Motorcycle Safety Facts

  1. Most motorcycle crashes happen on short trips.
    • Many accidents occur within 5 miles of the rider’s home, often during routine errands or short rides, when alertness is lower.
  2. Helmets reduce the risk of head injury by 69% and death by 42%.
    • According to the CDC, DOT-approved helmets are one of the most effective safety measures a rider can take.
  3. Wearing a helmet doesn’t impair hearing or vision.
    • Some believe helmets reduce awareness, but studies show they do not significantly affect peripheral vision or hearing.
  4. Most multi-vehicle motorcycle crashes are caused by the other driver.
    • Over two-thirds of these collisions are due to car drivers violating the motorcycle’s right-of-way, often because they “didn’t see” the rider.
  5. Left-turning vehicles are the most common cause of collisions.
    • In many accidents, a car turning left at an intersection hits a motorcycle going straight—often due to misjudging the rider’s speed or visibility.
  6. Motorcyclists are often overlooked in blind spots.
    • Because bikes are smaller, they’re more likely to be “invisible” to drivers changing lanes or merging, especially in large vehicles.
  7. Proper gear protects against more than just crashes.
    • Jackets, gloves, and boots also protect from burns, debris, weather exposure, and road rash during minor falls.
  8. Most riders involved in crashes are self-taught or poorly trained.
    • Riders with formal safety training (like MSF courses) have significantly lower crash rates.
  9. ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) significantly reduces fatal crashes.
    • Bikes with ABS are 37% less likely to be involved in a fatal crash, according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS).
  10. Alcohol is a factor in a high percentage of fatal motorcycle crashes.
  • In over 25% of fatal crashes, the rider has a BAC (blood alcohol content) over the legal limit.
  1. Even a small patch of gravel can be deadly.
  • Because motorcycles have less traction and balance than cars, minor road hazards like gravel, sand, or potholes can cause a crash.
  1. Bright clothing increases visibility but isn’t a guarantee.
  • High-visibility gear helps but doesn’t always prevent accidents, especially at dawn/dusk when lighting tricks the eye.
  1. Motorcyclists are 28 times more likely to die in a crash than car occupants.
  • Per mile traveled, motorcyclists face significantly higher risk compared to car drivers.
  1. Tires degrade faster than most riders realize.
  • Motorcycle tires wear more quickly and unevenly, and worn tires can dramatically reduce stopping distance and cornering ability.
  1. Riding fatigue can be just as dangerous as alcohol.
  • Fatigue slows reaction time, impairs judgment, and causes microsleeps—all potentially fatal when riding.

While much attention is given to basic motorcycle safety practices like wearing helmets and obeying speed limits, lesser-known factors can be just as critical to rider survival. From the importance of wearing abrasion-resistant clothing even on short trips, to the surprising risks posed by poorly maintained road surfaces and underinflated tires, these overlooked details can significantly affect accident outcomes. Moreover, studies show that visibility-enhancing gear and advanced rider training courses reduce the likelihood of collisions more than most riders realize. By paying attention to these underappreciated aspects of safety, motorcyclists can greatly reduce their risk and enjoy the road with greater confidence and control.

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What You Should Do If Your Car Catches Fire

If your car overheats and catches fire, your safety is the top priority. Here’s what to do, step by step:

 

  1. Pull Over Safely
  • Signal and move to the shoulder or a safe area off the road.
  • Stop the engine immediately to halt fuel flow and stop overheating.

 

  1. Evacuate the Vehicle
  • Get yourself and all passengers out immediately.
  • Do NOT open the hood – fire needs oxygen, and opening the hood could make it worse.
  • Move at least 100 feet away from the vehicle, ideally upwind in case of smoke or toxic fumes.

 

  1. Call Emergency Services
  • Dial 911 and clearly explain the location and the situation.
  • If you’re on a highway, mention your mile marker or nearby exit.

 

  1. Do NOT Attempt to Extinguish a Large Fire
  • A car fire can escalate quickly and may involve explosions from the fuel tank, tires, airbags, etc.
  • If it’s a small fire under the hood and you have a fire extinguisher (Class B or C) and it’s safe to do so, you can try to use it without opening the hood fully.
    • Aim through the grille or small opening.
  • If you’re unsure — don’t try. Leave it to the professionals.

 

  1. Do Not Re-Enter the Vehicle
  • Even if you left valuables inside, do not go back — smoke and flames can be fatal.
  • Wait for firefighters or emergency personnel to give the all-clear.

 

  1. Document the Incident (If Safe and Appropriate)
  • If you’re at a safe distance and it’s safe to do so, take pictures or video for insurance purposes.

 

  1. Notify Your Insurance Company
  • Call them once you’re safe. They’ll guide you through the claims process.

 

BONUS: Prevent Future Fires

After this incident is resolved, consider:

  • Routine maintenance to prevent overheating (coolant system, hoses, etc.)
  • Carrying a fire extinguisher rated for automotive use
  • Watching for signs of electrical or fuel issues in the future

 

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What To Do If Your Windshield Cracks

What To Do If Your Windshield Cracks

 

Why do windshields crack?

 

Windshields crack for several reasons, most of which relate to stress being placed on the glass or flaws in its structure. Here’s a breakdown of the most common causes:

  1. Impact Damage
  • Cause: Rocks, gravel, or other debris hitting the windshield, usually when driving.
  • Effect: This often results in small chips that can later grow into cracks if not repaired.

 

  1. Temperature Changes (Thermal Stress)
  • Cause: Sudden or extreme shifts in temperature—like pouring hot water on an icy windshield or blasting the defroster on high heat.
  • Effect: Glass expands and contracts with temperature; uneven expansion creates stress, leading to cracks.

 

  1. Structural Stress
  • Cause: Body flexing or twisting of the car due to driving over rough terrain, potholes, or poor chassis alignment.
  • Effect: Puts pressure on the windshield, especially if it was already weakened.

 

  1. Poor Installation
  • Cause: Incorrectly fitted or improperly supported windshields.
  • Effect: Can cause uneven stress distribution and make the glass more prone to cracking over time.

 

  1. Manufacturing Defects
  • Cause: Internal flaws or impurities in the glass during production.
  • Effect: These create weak points that are more likely to crack under pressure or stress.

 

  1. Ignored Chips or Dings
  • Cause: Small damage left unrepaired.
  • Effect: Vibration, weather, or stress can turn a tiny chip into a long crack.

 

  1. Pressure Stress (Uneven Frame Support)
  • Cause: Vehicle body damage or uneven windshield mounting.
  • Effect: Puts uneven pressure on the glass, which can eventually lead to cracks, especially around the edges.

 

Cracks in windshields are usually caused by impact, thermal stress, poor installation, or structural flaws. Even tiny chips can grow over time, so early repair is crucial.

If your windshield becomes cracked, here are a number of steps that you can take to get it repaired:

If your windshield is cracked, here’s a step-by-step guide to getting it repaired or replaced, depending on the severity:

 

  1. Assess the Damage

Ask yourself:

  • Is it a small chip or a long crack?
  • Does it obstruct your line of sight?
  • Is it near the edge of the windshield?

General rule:

  • Chips smaller than a quarter or cracks shorter than 6 inches may be repairable.
  • Larger cracks or damage in the driver’s view usually require replacement.

 

  1. Take Photos

Take clear pictures of the damage from different angles. This can help with:

  • Insurance claims
  • Getting accurate repair quotes

 

  1. Check Your Insurance

Call your auto insurance provider or log in to your account to check:

  • Is glass coverage included?
    (Many comprehensive policies cover repairs at no cost to you.)
  • Is there a deductible?
  • Do they partner with any glass repair companies?

Some insurers even offer zero-deductible glass coverage in certain states.

 

  1. Find a Reputable Auto Glass Repair Shop

You can:

  • Search for local auto glass specialists
  • Use national services like:
    • Safelite
    • Glass Doctor
    • Gerber Collision & Glass
  • Or ask your dealership or mechanic for recommendations

Many shops offer mobile repair (they come to you), which is convenient if the crack is spreading or driving is unsafe.

 

  1. Get a Quote

Even if insurance is involved, get a quote first. You’ll need:

  • Vehicle make, model, and year
  • Description of the damage
  • Photos (optional, but helpful)

 

  1. Repair or Replace
  • Repair: Usually takes 30 minutes, costs around $50–$100, and can often be done same-day.
  • Replacement: Takes 1–2 hours, costs $200–$500+
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